Reviewing a.kitchen: an Ellen Yin dining experience in Philadelphia.
A James Beard Award is nothing new to Ellen Yin. The 2023 recipient of Outstanding Restaurateur operates a handful of unique restaurants in Philly, including the city staple a.kitchen, which opened in 2011. I have walked past the restaurant and its bustling next door boite a.bar in Rittenhouse for years, so on the tails of Yin’s latest Beard achievement I made a reservation for a Sunday evening.
Sunday is quiet at this already subtle, bistro-inspired eatery steps from Rittenhouse Square. I arrive with my party of four early in the evening and the restaurant was ours alone for about half an hour. Sleek and intimate, the interior—designed by New York-based architect Edward Asfour—is reminiscent of Scandinavian simplicity with plenty of wood and clean lines. At our table, two of us face the open kitchen, and two face the long windows out to S. 18th St. In the summer, the entire façade opens toward the city.
Award-winning spirits at a.kitchen
With an award-winning spirits program, we take our time perusing the drink selection, which is set into three sections: shaken, stirred, and forgotten classics. My wife selects the Best Shape of My Life, made with bourbon and Corsican aperitif partnered with raspberry, lemon, and rosemary. No garnish is needed for this floral coupe-full. I opt for the alcohol-free Bitburger pilsner.
As we ease into Chef Eli Collins’ (who has been at a.kitchen since 2017) menu, we find a range of our favorite proteins. The menu does not distinguish between appetizer or entrée and there are plenty of vegetarian options available.
Steak, sea scallops, tuna and more at a.kitchen
My daughter is the steak lover in the family. So, she opts for the bavette steak presented rare as ordered with roasted sweet onions, charred delicata squash, and a slight spread of rich romesco sauce. My son loves sea scallops, and they arrive perfectly prepared with cheddar cauliflower, preserved lemon, and a few scapes. The lightly grilled tuna catches my wife’s eye; the small plate is big enough to share and features spicy Nardello harissa, Italian Taggiasca olives, and a squid vinaigrette for a few extra punches of salt and heat in both aroma and flavor.
a.kitchen Cheeseburger with a local High Street bun
I could not help but opt for comfort food, simply because I need to know how an a.kitchen cheeseburger tastes. The decadent sandwich barely leaves my grip as grease drips from the High Street sesame roll onto my fingers. The edges of the hot-seared meat hold the perfectly medium patties together, off which slide drops of melted American cheese and sweet yet savory Dijonaisse. The gherkins try desperately to stay on the sandwich as I practically inhale every bite. This is a good burger. Yet, as good as this burger is, it fills me with a bit of buyer’s remorse and makes me want to revisit the menu for a more opulent sounding dish like the octopus ‘Lyonnaise.’ I guess I will just have to come back.
Throughout our meal we feel neither neglected nor overly entreated. The staff here seems classically trained but offer the time and space for us to enjoy each other’s company and our meal. Ultimately, our server asks about dessert, but seeing nothing that catches our eye we decline.
a.kitchen Final Review
The rustic nature of the food cloaked in an expression of fine dining makes me want to revisit a.kitchen for breakfast or brunch—this menu features items like red curry chicken liver toast and a French omelet with brown butter crab. I will stop by again sometime soon—either for breakfast, brunch, or even another dinner—after I get a chance to visit some of Yin’s other accomplishments, like High Street Philly or Fork.