Reviewing Broder Nord: Scandinavian food in Portland.
Saturday brunch is a ritual my partner and I keep to reconnect and relax after a busy work week. We have our usual haunts, but I’m always on the lookout for something new. I found Broder Nord on Google Maps when exploring brunch spots near me and knew I wanted to go. I had been to Broder Nord’s sister location, Broder Söder, and had been impressed with how well it represented Scandinavian cuisine. My midwestern college had strong Norwegian ties and would often serve Scandinavian food on special occasions, especially around the holidays. Between that and my travels to Denmark and Norway, I have an appreciation for this cuisine, but rarely find it in Portland.
Broder Nord is located on Mississippi, a busy dining and shopping street in North Portland. It serves breakfast and lunch and boasts the largest selection of aquavit on the West Coast. The menu offers many vegetarian and gluten-free options for those with dietary preferences. Broder Nord also has a case of Scandinavian baked goods not listed on the menu. Inside, the space is open and inviting; clearly influenced by Scandinavian interior design. High ceilings and large windows letting in natural light make the venue feel much larger than it is. There is also a small gift shop predominantly featuring Scandinavian products and books.
When we arrived, the place was busy, but the wait wasn’t bad for a Saturday brunch (only about ten minutes). We ordered at the counter before heading to our seats. I got the förlorade ägg (lost eggs) which was two eggs on a bed of creamed spinach and topped with gluten-free bread crumbs and pecorino cheese. I also opted to have it served with shaved ham (there are vegetarian options) and gluten-free toast. I also ordered a raggmunk (potato pancake) that came served with lingonberry jam and the drink special which was glögg, a warmed Swedish mulled wine. The drink came with an adorable gingerbread cookie cut in the shape of a Dala horse.
All of the food was incredible. As someone who east gluten-free having that breadcrumb topping was a real treat. The glögg was wonderfully spiced and warming. The raggmunk was crispy on the outside, and soft on the inside, and the sweetness of the lingonberry went really well with the saltiness of the potato. What was just as enjoyable for me as the great taste was how they emphasized their Scandinavian influence with every little detail from touches like the Dala horse cookie to how they cooked their eggs.
The whites of my sunnyside eggs were square instead of the roughly circular shape you see with fried eggs. I hadn’t seen this before I traveled to Norway, but every hotel breakfast I had there also prepared their eggs this way. Instead of frying up eggs one at a time, they would crack a bunch of eggs onto a baking sheet, bake them until the whites were firm but the yolks were runny, and then cut the whites out from each other in perfect squares. It was such an authentic touch that I felt transported back across the ocean.
Broder Nord was a taste of Nordic life in addition to being tasty. I love it when a restaurant provides an experience that will always stand out just as much as good food. Needless to say, we will be going returning.