Reviewing Pupatella: Authentic Neopolitan pizza in Washington DC.

Naturally, when my friends let me know that they were headed to Pupatella for some Friday night ‘za, I jumped in my car and headed over. Having never been before and being a self-described pizza snob from New York, I was excited to try a new-to-me Neapolitan pizza in my area.  

We arrived at the South Arlington location just after 6 p.m. and were seated quickly in the dining room. The menus are provided at the table, however, you must go up to the counter to place your order and then be assigned a table number. When our group was ready to order, we were able to walk right up to the counter without having to wait. But be warned: by about 6:30 p.m., all the tables were occupied, and there was a line out the front door for takeout.  

From the outside, it gives off a 1950s diner vibe; the futuristic silver exterior is accentuated with a large red awning covering their outdoor seating area. “Pupatella” is lit up with red neon lights with white neon stripes on either side of the name. The interior unites the traditional brick-and-tile pizza place stereotype with bright, eye-catching graffiti murals, which, according to a sign, were created by a local high school art program. Perhaps the most interesting element of the dining room is a large, flatscreen TV situated over the bar. It broadcasts a live aerial view of the counter and oven, allowing diners to sit back and watch (and salivate) while their pizzas are being created. 

As soon as we ordered, my friends began selling me the pizza that was being made frantically on the screen above us. You see, this isn’t Neapolitan style. This is Neapolitan pizza. As it turns out, the owner is a native of Naples, Italy, and his restaurants (five in the Washington metropolitan area) have all been certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association, which sets the definition and designation for true Neapolitan pizza. Having once made an out-of-the-way stop in Naples for the sole purpose of visiting one of the oldest and best-rated Neapolitan pizza places in the world, I was beginning to buy what my friends were selling. 

Our drinks were the first to arrive at our table: a $5 happy hour house rosé for me and a local brew, one of several on the menu, for my friends. My wine arrived cold and was easily drinkable, and given the happy hour price, I had no complaints about it. Our three small plates arrived next, which included crostini, fried mozzarella balls, and arancini with eggplant. The crostini comes topped with roasted red pepper and white anchovies marinated in white wine. The flavor of the large, tangy anchovies was balanced well by the shreds of sweet red pepper, while the crispy crostini provided a delicious crunch and perfect base for the flavors to combine. The arancini balls were sizable and split open to reveal a core of hot eggplant and smoked mozzarella. Fried to golden perfection, they were not greasy or oily. Instead, the crust had a dry crunch that opened to superbly buttery risotto and creamy cheese, complemented by a burst of savory eggplant. As for the mozzarella balls, well, they fully satisfied the 6-year-old dining with us who didn’t let the adults anywhere near them!  

But of course, the only meal that truly matters at Pupatella is the pièce de resistance (or, I suppose, the pezzo forte), their pizza. All four pizzas arrived piping hot, carried to the table by multiple servers in a flurry of shifting dishes and shuffled cutlery. Pre-sliced in quarters, each full plate of pizza smelled irresistible. I personally ordered the calabrese, which includes red sauce topped with anchovies, kalamata olives, basil, and fresh mozzarella. As a lover of all things savory and salty, I will order an anchovy and olive pizza if it is on the menu. This was one of the best I have eaten, with all the components evenly distributed across the pie and each in harmonious quantity to not have any flavor overwhelm. Although simple, it was oh so delicious. 

My friends each ordered a white pizza. The mushroom, which was topped with cream sauce, garlic, brie, sautéed mushrooms, and truffle oil, wafted the sweet, delicate smell of truffle across the dining room when it was carried out. Instead of being used as an afterthought or overwhelming the cuisine, the truffle was added as a well-balanced flavor. With the cream sauce and melted brie, this pizza was a heavenly, if not overly rich, creation. The second pizza was a spinach pie topped with cream sauce, spinach, roasted red peppers, pine nuts, and feta cheese. Since the ingredients are all added prior to baking, the tops of the vegetables became slightly charred in the oven, giving the overall effect of a smoky vegetable pie.  

Our youngest diner enjoyed the Bimbi pizza, a run-of-the-mill but still perfectly crafted tomato and mozzarella pie. Baked to the same size as the regular pizzas, the restaurant states this is ideal to split between two small kids, or in this case, fantastic to take home for lunch the next day!  

Due to the system of ordering at the counter, there was no bill to pay after finishing our meal. On our way out, we walked by the front to look at their certified oven. Sure enough, it resembled the ovens I’d seen at an ancient shop in Naples. Covered in red tile, the oven had pizzas sliding in and out at a swift pace. Despite the freezing temperatures, the line had grown longer, with people standing outside in their winter hats and gloves. Some brave customers sat outside on the patio to eat their Neapolitan pizzas. 

I don’t need to say it because the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association already has, but this is Neapolitan pizza. Don’t be surprised if you find me standing in that line sometime soon.