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SAVORY SIPS: KING ESTATE

Tracy Onufer headshot

Tracy Onufer

Jul 25 2023
King Estate

Date of Visit:
Aug 03 2022

Address:
80854 Territorial Hwy., Eugene, OR 97405

AVA:
Willamette Valley

THE PLACE

In 1990, Ed King Jr. and his son Ed King III purchased a 600-acre cattle ranch near Lorane, Oregon, with a vision of producing premium wine. They established King Estate in 1991, the first grapes were planted in 1992, and the first vintage was produced in 1995. Two adjoining properties were acquired, expanding the estate to its current 1,033-acre size. Estate-grown grapes cover 470 acres and include pinot gris, pinot noir, gewürztraminer, muscat, and riesling. Uniquely, King Estate has more acreage dedicated to pinot gris (290 acres) than pinot noir (167 acres), which is opposite to the majority of Willamette Valley AVA vineyards. 

THE BRAND

Nestled on rolling hills at the southern end of the Willamette Valley AVA near Eugene, King Estate is the largest producer of pinot gris in the country. Although it’s the third largest winery in Oregon and produces over 200K cases annually, King Estate offers a large selection of boutique and exclusive wines. Its 1,033-acre estate is also the largest certified biodynamic vineyard in North America, and it has been organically certified since 2002.

The King family has always respected their land, emphasized sustainability, and treated their estate as a living organism. In addition to the acreage under the vine, the estate features woodland, grasslands, wetlands, a biodynamic garden, a biodynamic orchard, a nursery, and a 4,144-panel solar array. No herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, or pesticides are used, and the land is dry-farmed. Over 1,000 tons of compost is produced on the estate to feed the soil. King Estate also uses over 150 small stainless-steel tanks for fermentation to keep lots and blocks of grapes separate while ensuring that fruit is processed only when ripe. This leads to over 400 annual fermentations for the winemaking team to manage.  

THE EXPERIENCE

King Estate offers five wine tasting flights: Oregon Pinot Gris (3 wines, $13); Oregon Pinot Noir (3 wines, $19); Elite Flight (2 red, 2 whites, $24); Seasonal Flight (2 reds, 2 whites, $22); and Red Flight (3 wines, $21). I tasted a spectrum of wines across the flights for this review. 

THE WINE

  • 2017 Domaine Pinot Gris ($30) and 2016 Domaine Pinot Noir ($75): The Domaine moniker signifies the best expressions of pinot gris and pinot noir each year and is described as “King Estate in a bottle.” The Domaine Pinot Gris has aromas and flavors of cantaloupe and citrus, with medium acidity and a medium body. The Domaine Pinot Noir entices with smooth notes of red cherry, raspberry, and cloves. It has light tannins and acidity, as well as a rich mouthfeel. 
  • 2017 Pfeiffer Pinot Gris ($35): Pfeiffer vineyards in the Lower Long Tom AVA are warmer than King Estate’s vineyards, leading to a pinot gris with more tropical aromas and flavors, including pineapple and mango. It has medium plus acidity and a medium body. 
  • 2017 Paradox Pinot Gris ($35): This is King Estate’s only oak-aged pinot gris and spends three months in neutral French oak. The label is purposely affixed with “King Estate” written upside down, giving the bottle a whimsical feel. Aromas and flavors include pear, lime, and honey, with balanced acidity. 
  • 2017 Four Nobles Cuvée Blanc ($30): This is the first vintage of King Estate’s Alsace-inspired wine. The four noble grapes in this blend are gewürztraminer, pinot gris, riesling, and muscat, and all four varietals are estate-grown. This is a beautiful, aromatic, dry white wine with notes of citrus, pear, apple, and melon. The acidity complements the flavors, leading to a long finish. 
  • 2016 Carpenter Hill Petite Sirah ($55): The Carpenter Hill vineyard is located in Oregon’s Rogue Valley AVA and enjoys a warm, semi-arid climate, leading to a big and bold Petite Sirah. Jammy black fruit dominates, along with pepper, coffee, and noticeable tannins and acidity.  
  • 2016 Crater View/Seven Hills Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre ($55): This homage to the Southern Rhône region features grapes from Seven Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla, WA, and Crater View Vineyard in the Rogue Valley. It’s 41% grenache, 39% syrah, and 20% mourvédre. Black fruits and pepper dominate, along with dark chocolate and coffee. Smooth tannins and a full body are in harmony, creating an utterly delightful red wine. This was my favorite out of all the King Estate wines I tried, and I brought a bottle home to pair with a medium-rare filet mignon 
  • 2016 Bacchus Cabernet Sauvignon ($62): The Bacchus vineyard is in eastern Washington state and features nearly 50-year-old cabernet sauvignon vines. Aromas and flavors include black currant, tobacco, leather, and coffee. The tannins and acidity are bold but balanced, and this cab has a lower alcohol content than most California cabs.

 

Best bottle for your next dinner party: King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris 

Best bottle to add to your wine cellar: King Estate Domaine Pinot Noir 

THE HIGHLIGHT

I did a winery tour and saw just how massive King Estate’s operations are, especially for an Oregon winery. But what struck me most is their focus on crafting premium small-lot wines from both estate-grown grapes and grapes from prestigious vineyards in Oregon and Washington. I enjoyed their expansive offerings of both red and white wines; it’s a nice change from the pinot noir-dominated wineries in the Willamette Valley 

THE TAKEAWAY

If you find yourself in Eugene, a side visit to King Estate is well worth your time. Although the Willamette Valley is primarily focused on pinot noir, it is also known for world-class pinot gris. If you’d like to learn more about pinot gris and its different expressions, King Estate is the place to go. 

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