Reviewing Charlie was a sinner.: Creative vegan cuisine shines in Center City Philadelphia.

I was looking for a healthy, vegan restaurant in Center City, Philadelphia. Trying to avoid the dinner rush, we arrive early at Charlie was a sinner. and my party of four is the first seated on this particular Sunday evening. I walk into the empty space, rich with wood and deep colors dimly lit by overhead chandeliers, and I think I’ve found a vegan speakeasy. Our host leads us through the dimly lit restaurant to the last table in the long dining area where we spend our evening watching couples come into the restaurant.  

From the mind of Nicole Marquis

Created by Nicole Marquis, who brought HipCityVeg to Philadelphia and Washington D.C., Charlie was a sinner. is a vegan spot for small plates and strong drinks, as it says on the menu. The combo bar and restaurant opened in 2014.

Fancy a zero-proof cocktail?

Our server approaches the table and asks for drink orders as we peruse the menu. I start off with No Regrets, an alcohol-free cocktail made with housemade gin consisting of blended botanicals reminiscent of a classic English gin, lemon, and sparkling water. Another AF cocktail incorporates “egg whites,” and I had to know how this was prepared at a vegan restaurant. The answer is aquafaba, the liquid leftover from cooked chickpeas whipped until it forms white peaks.

Serving vegan small plates so you can try it all

Our waiter walks us through the menu and explains the small plates concept, encouraging us to order a few items to start and continue to order more as we desire.

Plant-forward croquettes do not disappoint

All dishes are plant-forward. Debating every item on the small menu, we actually want to order almost everything. And none of us are vegans. After some compromise, we start off with potato croquettes, which we think are a safe bet. The lightly fried, crispy balls of potato arrive with a chipotle aioli, and we all approve. The croquettes reside on the menu under “Snack.” and share space with spiced peanuts, fries, and olives.  

Vegan ricotta? Yes!

From the “Solo.” portion of the menu we decide on avocado toast, which arrives sliced, not smashed, on grilled cuts of sourdough with a habanero mayo, slivers of cherry belle radish and red onion, and microgreens. My daughter adds one more item: “our ricotta” has the texture of hummus with a delicate flavor seasoned with black pepper, lemon, and olive oil. This turns out to be our shared favorite item of the evening. 

Vegan take on traditional meats

As a main course, I choose from the “Iterations.” section. These are all vegan takes on dishes traditionally grounded in proteins, like meatballs, crabcakes, and sliders. I love mushrooms, so it is easy to choose the “fried calamari,” here replaced by oyster mushrooms and served with crisp kale chips plus a citrus aioli for dipping. The last part of the food menu is titled “Compositions.” and these items set themselves apart by replicating established global dishes like kofta and Genovese pasta. 

Save room for dessert

“To Sin.” is to eat dessert according to this menu. Offerings include a whiskey bread pudding served with espresso ice cream; a molten chocolate cake served with a French shortbread and vanilla ice cream; and a daily selection of sorbet. 

Charlie was a sinner. Final Review

Their menu changes often. I am excited to experience the new flavors of elevated vegan cooking when I visit next. Eat well!